THE MOLECULE: Calone®
Discovered by Pfizer chemists in 1965 doing research on tranquilizers, Calone turned out to be more efficient when inhaled. Its sea-spray, green and melon facets were so powerful that perfumers took over two decades to fully exploit the molecule. It went on to spawn the most iconic fragrance families of the 90s: aquatic fragrances. A victim of its success, Calone has been dormant for the past two decades. With fluo_ral, Nathalie Feisthauer introduces it into a radically different ecosystem.
THE SCENT: Glow Brighter in the Dark
In the 90s, Calone was used for clean, limpid aquatic scents. Here, Nathalie Feisthauer amps up its transparency by backlighting it with green notes so bright they veer on the fluorescent. Rhubarb, blackcurrant bud and tomato leaf add both the vegetal scents of a moonlit seaside jungle and the eerie glow of bioluminescent plankton edging indigo waves. Then she sets it off against the ink-black depths of Somalian incense, its metallic facets adding their cool gleam to the saline effects of Calone. In this powerfully contrasted and textured environment, the molecule evolves into a new olfactory life form. This is marine, but not as we know it.
In Strasbourg, as a teen, she never cared for perfume, until she wandered into a perfume shop on a rainy day and fell in love with Opium. Resolving to become a perfumer, she showered company with applications until one gentleman offered to see her. It turned out to be Jean-Louis Sieuzac, who’d composed the 70s blockbuster. Classically trained at the prestigious Roure School of perfumery, Nathalie began her career in New York in the 90s, working with the power consultant Ann Gottlieb. Since then, her career has spanned from classics such as Hermès Eau des Merveilles (with Ralf Schwieger) to several cutting-edge fragrances for Comme des Garçons. Today, Nathalie heads her own Paris-based independent composition studio, LAB scent. Fluo_ral is her first collaboration with Nomenclature.